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Reached New Heights: Nobelhart & Schmutzig's Achievement

In a series of continuous transformations, Berlin's most relentless dining establishment has secured a summer residence on the rooftop of Aufbauhaus. A critique by Clemens Niedenthal.

Este artículo se titula: Nobelhart & Schmutzig: Excelentes alturas
Este artículo se titula: Nobelhart & Schmutzig: Excelentes alturas

Reached New Heights: Nobelhart & Schmutzig's Achievement

Nobelhart & Schmutzig Temporarily Relocates to Aufbauhaus for Summer 2021

Micha Schäfer, head chef at Nobelhart & Schmutzig, is serving a 'greatest hits' of dishes for this temporary location. The restaurant, known for its brutal local Berlin cuisine and Nordic cuisine with a Berghain twist, has been led by Billy Wagner since 2015.

The restaurant has been constantly reinventing itself since the pandemic began, serving vegetarian dishes, hosting intimate dinners, and organizing events at various locations. This summer, Nobelhart & Schmutzig has been temporarily relocated to the rooftop of the Aufbauhaus on Moritzplatz.

The costs of the relocation totaled €25,000, including rent, tent construction, and a new kitchen. The temporary location offers a lofty ambience, with cosy woolen blankets designed by Berlin designer Frank Leder, who also created the restaurant's shirt sold in an online shop along with homemade preserves, pickles, and a loaf of bread.

The menu features classic dishes such as free-range chicken from Lars Odefey, aged in hay and seared to a crisp. The asparagus served at Nobelhart & Schmutzig is grown without plastic film and almost untouched by the kitchen. A standout dish is the tomato essence served at the beginning of the meal, which doesn't need to decide if it's a thirst-quencher or an appetiser.

The drink pairing at Nobelhart & Schmutzig costs at least €80, in addition to the menu price of €130 per person. The restaurant received a Michelin star in 2015, making it one of the city's top dining destinations.

Unlike most other restaurants in the city, Nobelhart & Schmutzig made it through the pandemic without losing a single employee. The restaurant's philosophy of seasonality, regionality, mindfulness, and powerful flavours is comparable to a curated intoxication.

Berghain, a club known to Wagner, is currently an art gallery, and it's unclear when it will return to normal. Regardless, Nobelhart & Schmutzig continues to push the boundaries of Berlin's culinary scene, offering a unique dining experience that is not to be missed.

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